The medieval Lombardy town in the Valtellina Alps will host the skiing in the 2026 Winter Olympics, but for now it’s full of under-the-radar charm

Viewed from the top of the 2,255-metre-high Stelvio piste, the town of Bormio far below looks like a Christmas cake, with pine trees and church spires poking out of a snow-filled scene. The two are connected by a run which, with a vertical drop of 1,010 metres and gradients reaching 60%, is one of the most technically demanding and physically gruelling descents on the International Ski and Snowboard Federation (FIS) Ski World Cup circuit. The men’s downhill and super-G events are held here regularly, including this December.

Luckily for someone who has never been, and will never be, a natural-born skier, I’m not here to tackle this beast of a piste. My bird’s-eye view of the town is instead part of an enjoyably energetic snowshoe hike with guide Luca in the Stelvio national park , Italy’s largest at more than 500 square miles (1,300 sq km).